Drag vs crimp. Open Crimp/ Drag Grip.

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Drag vs crimp First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Drag Crimp The least damaging and straining method of holding a crimp is by open or drag grip. If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. This hold isn’t as active as a half-crimp and relies more on friction and tension than your pulley muscles. Yesterday when I did max hang, on the 3/4 inch edge of beastmaker 1000 I was able to pull 80-85% body weight with one hand either chisel or 3-finger drag, but I could barely hang on the same edges with both hands in the half-crimp position. Higher risk than drag positions. Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. The drag is important to me so I have the strength to hit a hold and readjust confidently or move feet first. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Mechanically better grip when catching the next hold An open drag is When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo Oct 29, 2020 · The reality is, the full crimp &/or closed crimp is a valuable part of a climbers toolbox. My half crimp is only slightly stronger than my 2-finger drag. Open Crimp/ Drag Grip. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Though this type of crimp is safer to use than the full crimp, you should still pay attention to how your hand and wrist responds to movements and be cautious of overuse and straining your tendons. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Mar 27, 2019 · The drag is a more passive grip than the half-crimp, relying more on friction and tension in the tendon than 'pure strength'. Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. 3,040 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. May 1, 2024 · Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. This should last for only 2-3 seconds. Relax, allowing your fingers to gently rest on the hold again. . That means: More force Longer time to apply force Feb 9, 2020 · In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. The three-finger drag is a grip from which to hang while the four-finger open-hand is a grip from which to rest or even pull. Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Once mastered, the 3-Finger drag will likely become a staple in your climbing, allowing you to hold onto sloped edges with maximum efficiency. Three-finger drag is almost always best when the climber is directly underneath the hold, while the four-finger openhand can easily access gastons or side pulls. May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. Full crimp: Good for small edges. I train open crimp and 3 a lot more than full crimping lately, but it's been specific to my goal problems. It allows you to: pull harder on smaller holds, pull your hips into the wall, bend your wrist so you can move past your hand, and sometimes is just simply the most comfortable way to grab a hold (especially outside). Rest for 3-5 minutes between Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. Jan 19, 2021 · It is significantly more accurate. The grip involves a climber elongating their index, middle and ring finger into an open-hand (or ‘Drag’) position to hold an edge. The grip style makes a huge difference on a hangboard. The safest way to use a crimp hold is with an open crimp, also known as a drag grip. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. This holding technique is entirely different from full and half crimps as the length of your fingers on the hold do not form a bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold, instead, your fingertips are the only thing on Nov 9, 2022 · Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). Oct 31, 2019 · That's good to know. The catch is that on really hard moves it won't provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp, so it tends to be more useful for saving energy on easier moves (see 'grip switching'). Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing Three-Finger Drag. 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